Bila selama ini kita selalu menemukan foto-foto hitam putih akan keberadaan masa lalu masyarakat Karo, maka kali ini dapat dilihat dalam foto-foto yang berwarna. Tehnik untuk menghasilkan foto berwarna awalnya dikenal dengan sebutan Autochrome process. Dan teknik ini telah ditemukan sejak tahun 1907 walau dengan biaya mahal dan warna belum begitu sempurna.
Dalam majalah National Geographic Febuari 1930, ditemukan foto-foto berwarna masyarakat Karo yang dihasilkan dengan memakai lensa positif Autochrome oleh W. Robert Moore. Berikut foto-foto dan keterangannya :
A young Karo woman sits on a rock, dressed in traditional
clothing.
Location: Sumatra,
Indonesia.
Photographer: W.
ROBERT MOORE/National Geographic Stock
|
Dignity distinguishes the Karo Girl.
This young woman has a clear complexion, large brown eyes, and regular features, but her mouth has been marred by the chipping or filing of her teeth to the level of her gums. She wears a costume of homespun, with a huge silver earring held in place by a point of her padded cap.
Karo Ruler of Malayan Stock, Poses Holding a
Wooden Tool by W. Robert Moore |
The chief's people were once ferocious.
Some of the older men in the jolly old Karo ruler's village near Toba Lake remember days of savagery, but now they are peaceful. Though taller, darker and more bearded than the true Malay, they are of Malayan stock, have straight hair, and show no trace of Negrito blood.
Karo women and children pose in indigo-dyed clothing.
Location: Sumatra,
Indonesia.
Photographer: W.
ROBERT MOORE/National Geographic Stock
|
The women share in the profits as well as the labor farms. They make their clothing mostly of indigo-dyed homespun and for jewelry wear huge coiled-silver earrings attached for support to the pillowlike headdresses.
This Area of the Batak Village Is Used for Native Trials and Meetings by W. Robert Moore |
The structure in the foreground is used for native trials and public meetings, and on trading days barter goes on around it. In the gables are intricately woven designs of bamboo. The horned heads decorating the roofs indicate the number of animal slaughtered when the building was completed. They recall the ancient legend of the victory of the buffalo, champion of the Sumatrans, over the tiger, chosen fighter of the Javanese, in the battle to settle supremacy between two peoples.
Catatan tentang Autochrome :
sumber dan contoh foto-foto berwarna yang dihasilkan di tahun di atas 1907 dapat dilihat di sini.
Rice is the staple food of the Bataks.
With long wooden pestles the women pound out the white
kernels in primitive mortars
and gather them in shallow baskets.
(c) National Geographic, February 1930
|
Catatan tentang Autochrome :
Photographs in Color
Of all the technological
innovations occurring in photography between 1870 and 1920, none was more
tantalizing or possessed greater potential for commercial exploitation than the
discovery of how to make images in color. This search, which had begun with the
daguerreotype, entailed much dead-end experimentation before a practicable it
temporary solution was found in the positive glass Autochrome plate, marketed
in 1907 by its inventors the Lumiere brothers (pi. no. 325) (see A Short
Technical History, Part II). Though easy to use, the process required long
exposures, was expensive, and though the colors were subtle they were not
faultless. Because a simple, efficient method of turning the transparencies
into satisfactory photographic color prints was not available, the images had
to be viewed in a diascopc (single) or stereograph viewer; as late as the 1920s
commercial portraitists still were being advised to send black and white work
out to be hand -painted when a color image was desired. Nevertheless, Autochrome
from the start attracted amateurs with leisure and money, photographers of
flowers and nature, and in the United States, especially, indhiduals and
studios involved in producing commercial images for publication. It also
appealed briefly to aesthetic photographers who recognized at the time that
rather than augmenting reality, color was best treated as another facet of
artistic expressiveness (see Chapter 7).
French "autochromistes"
followed the example of the Lumieres (pi. nos. 342 and 343) in documenting
family activities at home, at play, and in their professions. Among
professionals, Jules Gervais-Courtellemont photographed in the Near and Far East
(pi. no. 344) and documented aspects of World War II; views of military life
(pi no. 345) by Jean Tournassoud (later director of photography for the French
Army) are other examples of interest in this theme. Autochrome appealed to
Lartigue; convinced that "life and color cannot be separated from each
other," he took elegant if somewhat mannered snapshots exemplified by Bibi
in Nice (pi. no. 351), and for a brief while this color process was used in a
similar fashion throughout Europe.
Not surprisingly, amateurs who
liked to photograph flowers were delighted by Autochrome, but it also attracted
a serious nature photographer, Henry Irving, who was quick to recognize the
value of even a flawed system for botanical studies (pi. no. 348). While
employed less frequently by documentary photographers, Autochrome was used by
William Rau, the Philadelphia commercial photographer of railroad images who by
the turn of the century had become interested in artistic camera expression;
Produce (pi. no. 347) is an example of a subject and treatment unusual in the
color work of the time.
While Autochrome (and its
commercial variants) was based on the theory of adding primary colors together
on one plate to effect the full range of spectral hues, experithat used a prism
to bring the three color plates into one sharply focused image. Because of the
cumbersomencss of tripling the exposure, the subjects, taken throughout
Rus¬sia, had to be more or less immobile, but despite the technical and
logistical difficulties of this complicated undertaking, Prokudin-Gorskii
produced what surely must be the most ambitious color documentation of the
time. In its early stages, it was hoped that color would add an element of
naturalness to the image—the missing ingredient in verisimilitude—since actuality
obviously was many-hued rather dian monochromatic as shown in photographs.
However, as photographers began to work with the materials they realized that
rather than making camera images more real, color dyes comprised another
elementments that led to the production of three different color negatives that
subsequently were superimposed and either projected or made into color prints
were also in progress (see A Short Technical History, Part II). Around 1904,
this procedure was used for an extensive documentation of Russian life
conceived by Sergei Mikhailovich Prokudin-Gorskii, a well-educated member of
the Russian Imperial Technological Society. An educational and ethnographic
project made with the tsar's patronage, it involved the production of three color-separation
negatives on each plate by using a camera with a spring-operated mechanism that
changed filters and repeated the exposures three times. After development,
these were projected in an apparatus that had to be considered in terms of its
expressive potential. The recognition that the seductiveness of color— its
capacity to make ordinary objects singularly attractive— would have a powerful
effect on the fields of advertising and publicity was the paramount stimulus in
efforts that led to another breakthrough in color technology in the 1930s.
Comments
~Ita Apulina Silangit iya, aku liat di kainnya gambar motif juga diterangi ya..
November 14 at 9:03am · Like
~Joy'd Bre Kabanjahe : Warna Sephia
November 14 at 9:29am · Like
~Yoel Kaban : kenapa ya kebanyakan wanita Karo dari foto yang kelihatan, kelihatan dalam keseharianpun, memakai tudung? :)
November 14 at 12:53pm · Like · 1
~Ita Apulina Silangit : bagaimana kalau kita mulai bahwa perempuan yang ada dalam foto adalah model bagi sang fotografer?
November 14 at 1:12pm · Like
~Yoel Kaban : Hehe, Ita Apulina Silangit arah ja pe sibenaken, labo kuakap dalih, adi bimbingndulah, Kak.. :)
OK, "model bagi sang fotografer" yang berarti secara khusus (di atur kostumnya, posenya dan segalanya gitu, kak?)
Berarti bisa jadi tadi lampassa ndai kesimpulenku ah ndai, mei?
November 14 at 1:16pm · Like · 2
~Ita Apulina Silangit : @Yoel Kaban: menurutku begitu yoel, pasti sudah ada sutradara atau penata gayalah paling tidak. Perempuan dalam foto sudah pasti menggunakan pakaian terbaiknya. Tambahi kena ka yah..
November 14 at 2:02pm · Like
~Yoel Kaban : Ue, Kak Ita Apulina Silangit, bujur..
Kuakap ndai entah memang bage kin nai busana sehari-hari si arah lebenta nai, ateku, maka si bas foto bage kerina rupana..
nde ah, nininta nai melala kap foto model hihi
November 14 at 3:49pm · Like
~Ita Apulina Silangit : mbue Yoel, mejile ka kel kerina. Adi rabit datas memang bage kin pakaian sehari-hari, adi tudung labo kel kerina makesa, termasuk uis si kadangkenna ah. Bage gia, ini menjadi informasi menarik man banta, terutama soal uis-uis sipakena...really beautiful.
November 14 at 3:54pm · Like
~Yoel Kaban Yoi : kak.. jadi lengkap puzzle imajinasi ini tentang mereka dulu..
aku baru pertama pun liat foto yang berwarna gini
November 14 at 3:57pm · Like · 1
~Ita Apulina Silangit : aku barusan lihat lagi foto ini, lihat kain yang diabitken perempuan ini, apa ini bukan seperti uis kapal, bukan biru tapi agak coklat, aku rasa motifnya mirip kayak kain yang kukalungkan di profil pic. Betul tak bang Juara R Ginting? saya hanya membandingkan dengan motif yg seperti segitiga itu.
November 14 at 4:00pm · Like
~Yoel Kaban : Bisa jadi Kak ya.. karna proses Autochrome itu, jadinya ada warna asli yang ga bisa "dikembalikan"
November 14 at 4:07pm · Like
November 14 at 4:12pm · Like · 1
~Edi Sembiring : kak Ita Apulina Silangit, kebanyakan mereka memang sudah dipersiapkan jadi model. apalagi kalau fotografernya T. (Tassilo) Adam. foto-foto lama di tanah Jawa malah dalam studio foto.
November 14 at 5:34pm · Like · 1
~Edi Sembiring : maksudku didandani sebelum di foto.
November 14 at 5:34pm · Like · 1
~Ita Apulina Silangit : kukira memang begitu bang...absulutely yes...aku pernah lihat beberapa foto yg modelnya mela seperti gak rela difoto..heheh. cuma kita melihatnya klasik aja..
November 14 at 5:36pm · Unlike · 1
~Juara R Ginting : Tassilo Adam memang punya studio foto di Medan saat itu :)
November 14 at 5:36pm · Unlike · 2
~Ita Apulina Silangit : and..aku semakin yakin kain perempuan di atas berwarna merah kecoklatan...hmmmm
November 14 at 5:46pm · Unlike · 1
~Edi Sembiring : aku tak meyakininya kak Ita Apulina Silangit. yang ada adalah warna tersebut yaitu indigo (kebiruan). karena banyak uis Karo berasal dari luar misalnya :
Beka bulu : Sibayak Suka, the former leader of Suka teritory (Karo), had a silk version of the BEKA BULU from Aceh.
Uis Nipes : "old acehnese silk textiles, very expensive, use a headcloth for the elite" Neumann 1951; 204.
November 14 at 11:39pm · Like
~Juara R Ginting : Warna merah tua (mendekati cokelat) sudah lama ada di Karo. Warna itu diambil dengan mencampur tellep (indigo) dan gambir. Beka buluh dan uis nipes memang baru. Termasuk padang rusak adalah baru, nama aslinya parang rusa (parang= sekin; rusa= belkih) yang artinya tanduk rusa.
November 14 at 11:43pm · Unlike · 1
~Juara R Ginting : Malahan, selendang (kadang-kadangen) di foto pertama (paling atas) saya kira juga berwarna cokelat mengarah ke nila dgn garis2 putih. Saya pernah melihat kain itu yang di Silalahi dan Paropo namanya Suri-suri. Sering kali kita temui di foto2 lama tenunan Suri-suri itu. Anehnya, sejak saya anak-anak tidak pernah melihatnya dipakai lagi oleh orang Karo.
November 14 at 11:52pm · Unlike · 1
~Edi Sembiring : ya di aceh dikenal sebagai plang rusa/pelang rusa (plang : colourful, sported). plang rusa : striped cloth. versi lainnya di aceh :plang rutha.
November 14 at 11:55pm · Like
~Edi Sembiring : surisuri idup/seridup?
November 14 at 11:59pm · Like
~Juara R Ginting : aku sudah agak lama tidak berkecimpung lagi dengan kain tenunan sehingga nama2nya banyak lupa. kalaupun ingat nama tidak semunya lagi tau pasti motif mana dengan nama mana. dulu pernah aku menulis satu artikel untuk katalog Museon Den Haag (dipublikasikan) tentang Uis Julu dan hubungannya dengan mitologi "Negeri Kepultaken ras Negeri Kesunduten". Sejak itu, aku agak lama tidak lagi begitu dekat dengan soal uis. aku tidak bisa menjawab apakah suri-suri sama dengan suri-suri idup. Dugaanku, suri-suri idup adalah suri-suri yang ditambah di kedua ujungnya tenunan berwarna putih dengan berbagai motif, seperti dalam Ragi Idup (Toba)
Tuesday at 12:08am · Unlike · 1
seperti yang abang bilang, hanya ada perbedaan jenis-jenis Suri-suri di motif di kedua ujung tenunan.
Tuesday at 12:15am · Like
~Juara R Ginting : Momen yang sangat tepat untuk mengatakan, hanya sebagian kecil orang Karo bertenun dan itupun hanya di Si Tolu Huta (Tongging, Paropo, Silalahi). Gambar2 orang Karo bertenun itu diambil dari Rumah Kabanjahe. Setelah bekerjasama dengan Belanda, Sibayak Kabanjahe (Pa Pelita) mendatangkan para penenun dari ketiga kampung ini ke Rumah Kabanjahe dan membuka satu kesain baru untuk mereka tinggal di sana. Edi Sembiring, coba kam perhatikan kembali foto-foto yang kam kirimkan tadi atau yang terdapat di blogndu. Tampak jelas rumah-rumah itu adalah di Rumah Kabanjahe. Tapi, ini yg perlu diperhatikan dgn seksama, mengapa di dekat para penenun itu tampak rumah-rumah kecil mirip "barung" berdinding tepas pula? Artinya, mereka tidak punya "rumah" (yg dlm bhs Karo berarti rumah adat) di sana. Mereka adalah orang2 yg didatangkan.
Tuesday at 12:24am · Unlike · 1
~Juara R Ginting : Selain di Tolu Huta, orang Karo tidak ada yang bertenun. Kapas (bunga) didatangkan dari Karo Jahe bagian Hilir (Sinuan Bunga). Warga Karo Gugung mencelup benangnya (benang dua puluh) dengan tellep (dan campur gambir untuk warna merah). Perlanja Sira membawanya ke Tolu Huta untuk ditenun di sana dan, setelah selesai, membawanya kembali ke pemesan.
Tuesday at 12:27am · Unlike · 1
Tuesday at 12:34am · Like
~Edi Sembiring : tentang Pa Pelita yang ingin mengembangkan tenun dan industri kecil memang benar. dan ini sejalan dengan dibukanya unit bank kecil setelah berangkat ke Padang bersama Middendorp (antropolog??) untuk modal usaha tersebut.
apakah rencana Pa Sendi dalam rencana "berdikari" mungkin saja.
Tahun 1986 pun hanya ditemukan 3 pencelup, itupun di Kabanjahe. dan warna indigo di Kabanjahe paling "kuat" dibanding yang ada di Toba atau di Simalungun. itu sebabnya banyak gambar-gambar penjual pewarna di pajak-pajak.
lalu apa maksud foto-foto itu dibuat bang? apakah sebagai laporan kegiatan ke Pimpinan Middendorp? hahhaha....
Tuesday at 12:42am · Like
~Juara R Ginting : Hal-hal seperti itu sudah banyak didiskusikan oleh C. Lévi-Strauss di masyarakat Indian dalam rangka mematahkan pemikiran difusionisme (penyebaran kebudayaan dari satu tempat ke tempat lain). Dia melihat teori Exchange (pertukaran) dari Marcel Mauss lebih relevan dalam melihat hubungan antar etnis dan produksi benda-benda budaya terutama yang bernilai tukar seperti uis/ ulos. Edi Sembiring, menarik sekali membaca bukunya Mauss terjemahan bahasa Indonesia yang berjudul PEMBERIAN, terutama agar kita tidak mudah tergelincir oleh pemikiran DIFUSIONISME yang telah sangat mencekoki pikiran kita sejak belajar sejarah di sekolah terutama oleh teori-teori Heine Geldren dengan Kebudayaan Dongson atau Tonkin.
Tuesday at 12:42am · Unlike · 1
Tuesday at 12:46am · Unlike · 1
~Ita Apulina Silangit : FYI: baru lihat literatur, motif kain pembuat gara2 ini namanya gatip duriduri. keterangannya: fine supplementary weft patterning at the ends and middle, typical of Si Tolu Huta. This is also an uwis nipes.
Tuesday at 12:49am · Unlike · 1
~Juara R Ginting : Nama Si Tolu Huta muncul di literatur antropologi setelah publikasi aku di Katalog Pameran dari Museon Den Haag itu. Sandra Niessen sendiri menyadari Si Tolu Huta setelah membaca publikasi itu. Mereka punya motif ulos tersendiri dan juga perangkat musik sendiri yang bernama Gondang Si Tolu Huta yang berbeda dengan Karo dan berbeda dengan Toba.
Tuesday at 1:18am · Unlike · 2
~Ita Apulina Silangit : yes...aku kutip itu tadi dari Sandra Niessen bang
Tuesday at 1:21am · Unlike · 1
~Edi Sembiring : kalau melihat foto-foto jaman dulu di Tongging (4 pria duduk di atas batu), maka Sandra mengatakan : these items of clothing also sugest an inter ethnic mix.
dan mengenai kehebatan pakaian seorang "raja" di tongging, dikatakan oleh Dr. Bernard Hagen (1881) ketika ia berkunjung, bahwa sarung sang "raja" pun sangat indah, dan dikatakan mahal karena rajutannya.
Kain yang dihasilkan Si Tolu Huta untuk pesanan masyarakat karo : uis Teba, Ragi Jenggi, Hati Rongga, Gobar, Riburibu, Jungjung.
Tuesday at 1:46am · Like
~Juara R Ginting : Sebenarnya, tidak juga sepenuhnya itu kreasi Si Tolu Huta karena motif itu sudah duluan ditetapkan oleh hasil celupan di Karo Gugung. Penenun hanya mengikuti motif yang sudah dirancang pencelup orang-orang Karo.
Tuesday at 3:09am · Unlike · 1
~Edi Sembiring : iya bang, makanya selalu dibilang di buku sandra, bahwa itu kain "pesanan" Karo.
Tuesday at 7:54am · Like · 1